A Bird's Eye View of my Thanh Hoa Experience
Bird diversity in Vietnam is incredible. Over 700 species have been reported.
Vietnam is a country whose birding history is short and narrowly focused. Most travelling birders target a handful of popular destinations. Dong Nai (Cat Tien), Dalat Plateau, Ninh Binh, Kon Tum and a few other locations make up the majority of tourist birding.
I had the distinct privilege of working in Vietnam for 18 months during the pandemic. I worked at the Nghi Son Refinery in Thanh Hoa province. Getting to Vietnam was not easy. Due to Vietnam COVID travel restrictions, there was extensive paperwork required to get authorization to fly on special “foreign expert” and Vietnamese repatriation fights that were few and far between. It took about 4 months to complete the process. I purchased “Birds of Southeast Asia” by Craig Robson and began to study. I reviewed eBird data to find the best spots for birding in my area and see what was being reported.
Thanh Hoa province is a geographically large province, extending from the East Sea to Laos. It is heavily populated along the coast and quite rural inland. I think it would be a reasonable guess that 80% of the population lives in 10% of the land mass with that land mass being along the coast.
A quick eBird review will show how unexplored the province is. There are only two hotspots defined. There have only been 9 people to report more than 10 birds. Only 6 people have reported any birds in the last 2 years. Only 4 people have reported more than 100 birds. This province has tremendous potential. In the words of the top eBirder from the province (now tied with me on species count), he believes that there is potential for new species in the province’s forest reserves. I believe him.
Regrettably, the two major forest reserves (Xuan Lien and Pu Hu) are not officially accessible without government permission, but there are plenty of other locations that are readily accessible without needing anything but a scooter or driver and some good legs. So here you have my Top 10 Birding Locations in Thanh Hoa Province, Vietnam.
Number 10 - Thin Hai Beach
Located at 19.380604, 105.785028, this birding spot puts on full display the poor solid waste management system in Vietnam. But since when did a garbage dump deter a serious birder?
While this location is not a actual garbage dump, it could pass for one. Park the scooter at the end of the road and start exploring. Watch your step for boards with exposed nails. There is some nice salt pond and marsh habitat as well as casuarina trees and scrubby bushes. In these locations, I have found eastern marsh harrier, green and common sandpiper, striated heron, daurian redstart, Manchurian bush-warbler, buttonquail and more.
Out on the beach, you can find Kentish, white-faced, and lesser-sand plover. You can also find godwits, whimbrels and terns.
Number 9 - Ho Ao Quan
Ho means lake in Vietnamese so this is a lake. Ride the dike wall. Park on the dike and look around. Many times, I have seen red-rumped swallows by the hundreds at this lake on migration. You are sure to find some birds. Walk down into the rice paddies and you will find various waders and waterfowl during migration time.
If the rice paddies were recently flooded, there will be an abundance of kingfishers, Pelecaniformes and others taking in the bounty of small fish available. It is a competition to get them. Birds vs Humans. The villagers walk around with a car battery strapped to their back and a positive and negative probe that they put in the water and stun whatever is swimming in between the probes. An interesting sight to see. In Thanh Hoa, rice harvest is typically April and October. This would mean that field flooding will take place in January and July.
Also, be sure to investigate the cemetery in the middle of the rice field east of the dam. It is always good for some little brown jobs.
Number 8 - Thanh Hoa City Park
Located in the city center, this park has an amazing variety of bird life. It is best early in the morning but don’t expect it to be quiet. On many mornings the exercise and aerobics classes start at first light. There are several groups in different parts of the park and they like it loud! It can be deafening. I believe the birds may be used to it by now. I have seen bitterns, waterhens, ioras, several flycatchers, several bulbuls and others.
The VinPearl Hotel is a great place to stay that is walking distance from the park. It is not cheap as Vietnam hotels go at $60 per night, but the value is excellent. There is a fine restaurant on top as well as a bar.
Sadly, you will likely see the cage bird trade in full operation at the gates of the park. Cages stacked high on the backs of scooters packed full of wild caught birds.
Number 7 - North Mouth of the Song Ma
Now for some seabirds and waders. Particularly during migration time this spot will be a beehive of bird activity. The Song Ma (Horse River) is a large navigable river that runs through Thanh Hoa Province. The north side of the river is quite rural while the south side of the river is a major regional tourism destination with a fine golf course and luxury hotels. The area is called Sam Son and is buzzing with night life and other activities.
Take the road south from Hai Tien as far as you can go. Find a place to park. Find your way to the waterfront through the village trails and walk out to the point and enjoy the scenery. The trail I take goes just south of a govt. installation at 19.789950, 105.928517. There are some salt ponds in the area as well which are always holding some birds.
Number 6 - Ham Rong Bunkers
Just north of Thanh Hoa City the Song Ma serves as a natural barrier to overland cargo. Bridges crossing this river are key supply lines to and from Hanoi and points to the south. The bridge crossing the river at this location is called the Cua Ham Rong (Dragon’s Jaw Bridge). It was the site of persistent bombing raids by the US to destroy the bridge and disrupt military and other supplies to the battlefield. It was and is a source of pride for the Vietnamese in how they defended the bridge successfully, taking down many US fighter jets and keeping the bridge operational. Eventually, the US did succeed in taking the bridge down and disrupting supplies.
On the west side of the river between the bridge and the monastery is a wonderful green area. There are many separate places to enjoy within the small area. The bunkers on the hill are a great place to visit and see the intact bunkers as well as craters from US shelling. Also birds. A walk through the monastery and south of the developed part is an open area with some views of the river and some birding opportunities.
Walk down the stairs of the monastery and along the river road to the right.
When the river road meets the Long Quang road leading to the bridge, walk towards the bridge and imagine the fighter jets flying low to drop their bombs and meeting fierce resistance from the North Vietnamese army. Also, visit the Long Quang Cave to the left and follow some of the trails in that area. It will not disappoint.
Number 5 - Kim Son Park
Located off the beaten path this tourist attraction offers a very nice boat ride though a cave and through some rural habitat. The boat ride also stops at a temple complex with nice gardens that will always hold some birds.
After completing the boat ride, you will be let off at a restaurant. Behind the restaurant is a trail with lots of steps up to a cave and some great overlooks. There are monkeys and birds along this trail to be found.
After descending you must walk the 200 meters back to your car or scooter. The walk is along the limestone cliff with plenty of vegetation to hold birds.
Number 4 - God's Well Trail
This area is a habitat oasis amongst a busy highway, densely populated housing communities, business districts and heavy industry. God’s Well, which is a manmade well with a plaque describing its significance is located at 19.353675,105.732297. You can drive your scooter up the well and park.
The trail is a moderate hike on otherwise nice walking paths. It takes you through areas of dense jungle and open fields yielding a variety of birds, not to mention great views.
You have an option of making this a loop of about 5 km where you follow the trail all the way to the road in the NRC housing area and then walk back on the road through the Anh Phat Resort, or you can take the out and back approach and make that hike as long as you like.
Number 3 - Top of the Mountain
This was my most frequented birding location due a combination of closeness to home and productivity. Top of the Mountain is a name made up by us foreign workers who scootered around the area for pleasure. You will find it called Chua Am Coc on Google Maps. It is a temple on the top of a mountain with a lake at the base. Much of the mountain is in some form of forestry, either pine sap or pulp wood but at the top it seems to be more protected with a more natural looking forest. There are birding opportunities. My wife and I have birded all over that mountain. I think we have had the most success at the bottom and the top.
At the bottom, you can park at the gate across from the restaurant and walk the trail back towards the lake. There are some streams flowing and heavy brush and other vegetation making for great habitat.
Near the top, park at the old well and quietly listen and wait for activity. Then continue to the top and park at the temple. The trail we normally followed took us past the beehives and up to the large Budda statue. Cross the field and continue up to the right to the bell. Enjoy the view from the bell before continuing the loop back to the Budda statue.
Number 2 - Ben En National Park
There are lots of birding opportunities around the park. Some of those opportunities are organized, well established and easy to access. Other are a DIY version of birding requiring google maps on satellite imagery to locate undisturbed habitat.
Starting with the established, proceed to the park headquarters and book yourself a boat tour. The boat tour should also stop at the island so that you can walk the 2-3km hiking path. You will need to make sure the driver understands your needs so that you can stay on the island long enough make of good survey of the bird life. Two hours minimum is my recommendation. Three hours would be very comfortable. The boat also has an established route over water with plenty of opportunities to spot raptors, herons, and other large birds.
At the park headquarters, there is a trailhead. You can make a long loop of the trail that takes you out of the park and ultimately back to the entrance road. This is about 6 km so take enough water. It is a very nice hike on a good trail. I have done the trail a few times and have found that the best bird activity is in the first 1km.
Now for the real gem of Ben En, finding your own unspoiled, yet accessible, locations. My favorite is to follow the cow and scooter trails off the main road and park on the grass at 19.547978,105.518350. Walk around the edges of the lake to find untouched bird habitat (except for a few cows or buffalo).
The photo above and to the left is my favorite birding location in Vietnam. Definitely off the beaten path and a challenge to find. Use the above coordinates to find your way.
Another favorite spot is at 19.608178, 105.385429. Park off the highway and walk down the trail.
There are many more locations around the park to be explored and discovered by birding enthusiasts.
Number 1 - Pu Luong
Pu Luong is a beautiful rural area of Vietnam that is a regional tourist destination. There are ancient rice paddies terraced into the hill sides, dramatic limestone peaks and beautiful native hardwood forests. The latter being the main target of people like me. Pu Luong Retreat is one of the more popular accommodations. They can arrange a guide (not a birding guide) to show you the way to the top of the mountain across the road from the retreat. It is an amazing view and good birding along the way. It is a strenuous hike! I do recommend a guide as the trails are numerous and it is easy to see how you might deviate and get on a trail significantly more challenging than you desire or come down in a location far from your accommodations. We found that most of the hotels/homestays will rent you a scooter or arrange it for you. $10 per day would be a reasonable price.
There are many other birding opportunities as well when you have the freedom of a scooter to explore on your own.
There is a stream about 1.5 km downhill from Pu Luong Retreat on the main road. My wife and I parked here and hiked up the stream a few hundred yards exploring this area with some success.
The road up to Lang Son offers excellent roadside birding and great views as well. Be very careful with the breaks on the way down. They will overheat. I strongly recommend frequent stops to look for birds (and cool your brakes) on the way down.
When you arrive back in the valley from Lang Son, turn south and look for opportunities to drive up into the hills to the east. A favorite spot of mine is the side road at 20.462110,105.18220. Drive across the stream and find a place to park the scooter and start walking. You wont be disappointed.
Conclusion
Thanh Hoa Province is an untapped birding destination. Using google maps on satellite and terrain view and having your own transportation (scooter) are essential for finding your own birding hot spots. Good Luck!