Alaska, A Journey, not a Destination
The next leg of the journey was one of the most anticipated parts of the entire trip. The sky islands of Southeast Arizona rise from the desert floor to reach 9000+ feet above sea level. They create an American oasis of biodiversity.
It's All About the Sky Islands
Why call them sky islands? Because they are scattered, individual mountains rising from hot desert scrub vertically through five different biomes climaxing with coniferous forests boasting cool temperatures year-round (actually frigid in the winter). Each biome (desert scrub, grassland, chaparral, hardwood forest and pine forest) comes with its own set of plant and animal life.
What makes them such an attraction to US based birders and naturalists? The sky islands are the extreme northern terminus of the Sierra Madre Mountain Range which stretches far down into Mexico. Various Mexican species cross the border into SE Arizona as a natural extension of their home range. If you want them on your US list, you must go there. Additionally, vagrancy for birds is high in this region, due to its geologic connection to a large part of Mexico. You never know what you’ll get.
What Else?
What else, you say. Oh yes, it is a major migration route for birds heading to the far reaches of the north each spring and returning each fall.
The most notable mountain ranges (sky islands) in the area are the Chiricahua Mountains, Mount Lemon, the Huachuca Mountains and the Santa Rita Mountains. There are others to be sure, but these are the ones that most folks who are birding Southeast Arizona would like to explore as a priority.
Where to Start Birding Southeast Arizona
We opted to start with the Chiricahua Mountains. Specifically, on the west side of the range.
As we were travelling in an off-grid camper and 4WD truck we planned to boondock most of the entire journey. Surprisingly, the options for this were limited in SE Arizona. This was mostly due to our overall length. The roads into the mountains were rough, narrow and had lots of switchbacks. Signs told us that vehicles longer than 25’ were not allow, by law. Our combined length was 45’. There was plenty of boondocking sites in the mountains, but they were not accessible to us, legally speaking. I would later conclude that this rule was made with an abundance of conservatism to keep idiots from trying stupid things. There was no road that we were on that my rig would not be able to handle.
We settled on a boondocking site around a lake south of Wilcox, Arizona. It turned out to be a great spot. Not only was it nice and level, but the lake was a real birding hotspot. There was a steady stream of birders coming to look for passing migrants.
In and Around the Lake
For me, I immediately found two lifers: Red-necked Phalarope and Chihuahuan Meadowlark (a recent split from Eastern Meadowlark). I also identified a couple of rarities (for the area): Laughing Gull and Stilt Sandpiper which I noticed brought out many birders from the area get a look and add to their lists. Watching multiple Wilson’s Phalaropes perform their feeding dance (click on this video) was a real treat as were all the great looks at the many Cinnamon Teal in the lake. There was also a flyover Sandhill Crane that was about a month behind schedule on his migration. Was he injured and had to heal before heading north, who knows? Hopefully, he made his way safely to his breeding location in Canada.
Chiricahua National Monument
Staying at this location meant a near one-hour drive to the Chiricahua Mountain Range. Rising early was not difficult; the adrenaline was flowing. Today’s destination: Chiricahua National Monument. This Monument, which is part of the National Park Service, did not disappoint. The park was created to protect the ryolite rock formations. The ryolite rock was deposited as ash during a massive eruption 27 million years ago. Erosion of the resulting caldera walls has left amazing pinnacles of rock behind which is the attraction and reason for the park.
The park elevation puts the habitat as chaparral and hardwood forest. We spent the day hiking, driving and birding Southeast Arizona within and around the park.
Birding Southeast Arizona specialties first seen here were: Bridled Titmouse, Painted Redstart, Dusky-capped Flycatcher and Hepatic Tanager. I also recorded lifer Plumbeous Vireo and Cassin’s Vireo.
Heading for Higher Ground
On the next morning, we returned to a similar area, but a much higher elevation. The road up was narrow, rough, winding and limited to 25’ length vehicles. As we drove it, I was sure that my rig could do it. As we ascended, we were surprised at how much the temperature dropped. By the time we got to our highest elevation we were in the 50’s. The pine forest was beautiful and alive with sounds. We only saw one other vehicle the whole day we were up there.
We hiked the roads, picnicked (remember, be bear aware, they are there), and had a peaceful and relaxing time chasing birds around.
Our plan was to stay until after dark to see what owls and nightjars might be found. We got no owls, but as we were driving down the mountain, Mirka said, “Stop here and lets see if we can hear any night birds.” What a call! A Mexican Whip-o-will was calling repeatedly.
Birding Southeast Arizona specialties first seen here were: Mexican Chickadee, Red-faced Warbler, Yellow-eyed Junco, Greater Pewee and Mexican Whip-o-will. Other lifers found were Dusky Flycatcher, Virginia’s Warbler and Grace’s Warbler.
Moving to New Mexico
The next day would be a travel day. Cave Creek Canyon is one of the iconic locations for birding Southeast Arizona. The riparian hardwood habitat is the home of the Elegant Trogon. The only member of its Order (Trogoniformes) which regularly occurs in the USA.
We found a great boondocking site along highway 80 in New Mexico on BLM land at Granite Gap. This site was almost an hour from Portal, AZ. We considered paying for closer accommodations; however, they seemed pricey, and we certainly enjoy the peace and quiet of boondocking. There would need to be a compelling reason to pay for camping.
Searching for the Elegant Trogon
When birding Southeast Arizona, Portal is a must stop. It is the entry point to Cave Creek Canyon which is within the Coronado National Forest and the starting point for the long bumpy ride to Paradise, AZ and the George Walker House.
First on the list to track down was the Elegant Trogon. Cave Creek, South Fork was the location that the bird had been reported recently. The hike up the canyon winded through dry riparian oak and high cottonwood. The creek bed was dry. It was hard for me to imagine a trogon living and breeding in this habitat. I have seen many different trogon species in Panama and they were always associated with thick rainforest habitat.
I Hear You!
Up we plodded until at one point I heard a sound. Could it be? I checked my app to assure myself that I was hearing the target bird. Indeed, I was. I could stop there, go back to the truck and put him on my list. It would be completely in accordance with the American Birding Association rules. Of course, it would be crazy and woefully unsatisfying to do that. We walked around trying to find from where the occasional call was emanating.
Trogons can sit still for long periods of time and despite their bright colors that go against all camouflaging protocols, they can be hard to spot. But, alas, Mirka spotted the bird, sitting high in an oak tree. As I tried to get closer for a better photo, he amazingly obliged me and flew to within 30 feet, sitting in the wide open showing me his profile.
Comically, I think I took about 200 photos of this bird sitting perfectly still. I did make a couple of exposure compensation setting changes just for good measure. It was hard to leave this unique bird that seems so out of place in the USA. This was surely one of the biggest highlights of the birding Southeast Arizona portion of the journey.
Birding Southeast Arizona specialty birds first seen in the Portal/Cave Creek area were: Elegant Trogon, Arizona Woodpecker, Broad-billed Hummingbird, Blue-throated Mountain Gem and Thick-billed Kingbird.
See You in Paradise
Next location on the agenda was to make the trip to the George Walker House in Paradise, AZ. This is a good 45-minute trip on a wash-boarded road from Portal. You must really want to go. In my case, the ABA Code 3 bird, White-eared Hummingbird, was a regular at their feeders. The George Walker House is a private residence in Paradise that has a long history of opening their yard to birders. George Walker built the house 100 yrs ago and is one of the last original structures from the mining boom days. There are a couple of houses on the property that can be rented out to birders.
After finding the house, I was immediately greeted by a number of wild turkeys which I noticed were quite large in comparison to the turkeys I see in Oklahoma. As I was later informed, the sub-species in this area is the largest sub-species.
We sat comfortably at the house staring at the various feeders and the many birds flying in and out of the yard. A cute little Juniper Titmouse is an unusual bird for the area and was a pleasure to get photos of. Yes, the White-eared Hummingbird did show-up.
Not a Whiskered Screech Owl
The reports were in and consistent. There was at least one Whiskered Screech Owl in Cave Creek Canyon, South Fork. We would make our second and final attempt for this birding Southeast Arizona specialty.
As we slowly made our way up the road, stopping every hundred yards to listen, I shamelessly used a bit of playback. Playback not only for the Whiskered Screech Owl, but also for the Western Screech Owl and the Northern Pygmy Owl.
At one stop, I listened carefully. I heard it, in the distance answering my call. I called back. Each time, he responded and was getting closer. Soon, he would be close enough to hop out with a flashlight and lay eyes on this rare bird.
Suddenly, we noticed what appeared to be lights in the woods. No way! Could it be? I had successfully called in a small flock of birders. They must have thought they were having one hell of a good night hearing all three owl species at one time. We drove off and they turned around. Disappointment for all.
Southwest New Mexico
One last morning of birding before relocating to the Mount Lemon area. This time we focused on chasing down the Bendire’s Thrasher. A thinly dispersed Arizona/SW New Mexico specialty. After much effort I was able to put him on the list. Photos were crappy because the bird was not cooperative at all. We found him near Rodeo, NM.
Birding Southeast Arizona Specialty Birds first seen in Portal, AZ and Rodeo, NM were White-eared Hummingbird, Rivoli’s Hummingbird and Bendire’s Thrasher. New lifers found in these areas were Band-tailed Pigeon, Juniper Titmouse and Broad-tailed Hummingbird.
Tucson Area
Mount Lemon is a huge sky island east and slightly north of Tucson. There is a small ski resort in the mountains. The town, Mount Lemmon, looks like any Rocky Mountain ski resort town. I was impressed. The birding was also quite good.
My main target bird at this location was the Olive Warbler. The Olive Warbler, although it has all the features of other US warblers, is in a family all by itself. I am sure the scientists have good backing for this but to the average avid birder, it’s hard to see.
Sweetwater Wetlands Preserve is another great spot to bird right in the city of Tucson. No new lifers here, but very birdy and enjoyable. I even got the Least Bittern rarity that was being reported there.
Birding Southeast Arizona Specialty Bird first seen here was the Olive Warbler. I got my lifer Violet-green Swallow here as well.
The Final Leg
For the final leg of this trip, we moved back south to near Sierra Vista at a free campsite next to a monument for the LDS members (Mormons) involved in the Battle of the Bulls.
First of all, I was expecting that this was some encounter with natives that went bad, but I thought, what the helk, I’ll google it. Turns out in 1846 a Mormon battalion on patrol at this site startled a herd of wild bulls and chaos ensued. When the dust settled a few Mormons were injured a few mules were gored to death and 9 bulls killed. I am impressed that this tiny piece of history has not been forgotten.
From this location we birded such iconic locations as the Patton Center for Hummingbirds, San Pedro House, Ash Canyon Preserve, Ramsey Canyon Preserve, and we made a treacherous trip up Carr Canyon Road to a point and walked the rest of the way to the old Reef Townsite.
My Favorite Spots
Of the above locations, I liked the Ramsey Canyon Preserve and the Reef Townsite the best.
The drive up Carr Canyon was the typical one-lane mountain road with steep switchbacks. We found a wide switchback at one point where we could turn around and decided to park and walk the rest of the way up. What a beautiful hike it was! Great views of the desert below. The hike up took us from oak forest to pine forest and cool air. The birding at the townsite was fantastic. Unfortunately, since I knew it would be a long vertical hike, I left the camera behind.
Birding Southeast Arizona Specialty Birds first seen at these locations were Violet-crowned Hummingbird, Gray Hawk, Berylline Hummingbird, Sulfur-bellied Flycatcher, Buff-breasted Flycatcher, Northern-beardless Tyrannulet and Botteri’s Sparrow.
The Final Tally
So concluded the birding Southeast Arizona portion of the trip. There were very few specialty birds that were being reported in the area that I did not see. In fact, only the Whiskered Screech Owl was a big miss after two night attempts in areas where they were recently reported failed.
The Santa Rita Mountains were skipped for the reason mentioned in the previous paragraph. Madera Canyon which is in these mountains will have to wait until the next trip. I found 35 new life birds and photographed so many birds that I did not previously photograph.
More than Birding Southeast Arizona
This area of Arizona is a wine producing region with literally dozens of small vineyards and wineries. Each spring Wilcox hosts the Wilcox Wine Festival which we were able to attend and sample many of the local wines. I am hardly a credible judge of wine, but they tasted pretty good to me.
Tombstone, Arizona is smack in the middle of the area. The town center is preserved as it was when Wyatt Earp was the law. It is an interesting little tourist attraction and worth an afternoon of your time.
Bisbee, Arizona is a quaint, eclectic and eccentric little hippy town with a great brewery and gin distillery. I sampled the naturally azure colored gin made from local juniper berries and found it to be so good that I purchased two bottles for the road trip.
These last two weeks of birding Southeast Arizona will be hard to beat.
Good day, Joel, what a treat to start my day with your wonderful blog and beautiful photos. Thank you!
I will be birding in SE Arizona at Tucson Audubon’s August festival. I look forward to seeing the many hummingbirds you mention.
Best to you & Mirka, Liz B.
Another fantastic blog. I never dreamed of a Trogan in the US. So beautiful. Enjoy the trip to Alaska.
Fantastic photos and enjoyable commentary! Such beautiful birds. Who knew there are so many different ones!
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