Birding Hawaii - Part 4 - Molokai

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Should I Do it?

Is birding Molokai worth the effort?

It is not really a complicated question. If Molokai is where you must go, then bird it. If you are visiting other islands in the chain, then there is no reason to include Molokai on the itinerary. There is absolutely no reason to plan a trip to Molokai to bird.

I would go to Molokai after birding Oahu and Kauai and with the knowledge that I would be birding the Big Island extensively including one day with a guide in a restricted access forest reserve.

The native forest birds would be mine on the Big Island, no need to try for any on Molokai. As a matter of point, there are officially only three native forest birds remaining on the island, Apapane, Iiwi and Hawaii Amakihi.

We arrived at the airport, picked-up our Turo, and headed to the grocery store(s) in town to load up on essentials before heading to our AirBnB at Molokai Shores. The one-bedroom condo was totally acceptable. We had access to a beach, swimming pool, grills and laundry facilities. Our stay was 4 nights.

Our purpose for going to Molokai was to experience the Hawaii of 100 years ago not for birding Molokai. I suspect that all that has changed on the island in that time frame is automobiles, electricity, and a handful of modest accommodations. Oh, and cell phones. Ok, so probably alot has changed in 100 years but it has stagnated in an isolated oxbow while the river of progress flowed through all the other islands in the chain.

The majority of Hawaiians on Molokai like it that way and aren’t afraid to show it……….on t-shirts, on caps and on signs in their yards. In all fairness, with one exception, all our interactions with locals were either neutral or positive.

In reviewing my needs list for the trip there really wasn’t much that I could get birding Molokai so that aspect of the trip took a backseat to just exploring the island. I was happy to pick-up the African Silverbill around the pool area. A good start!

The car we used was not capable of going up into the higher elevation forests, so we didn’t. If you ask anyone on Molokai about making that trip, two things are clear. One, you would need 4WD to use your own vehicle and two, you must hire a guide to prevent getting lost (really?) and to ask permission of the Hawaiian gods before entering the sacred grounds.

The roads ascending the mountain are public access roads. Many people do not follow the recommendation and go without a guide. One couple we spoke with, that went unguided, confirmed that the 4WD recommendation is spot on. I am not sure if they have suffered a chain of bad luck….

Top Molokai Activities

We took the cultural hike in Halawa Valley. Gregory and his son Devak were our host and guide. The program begins with the paying customers participating in the custom of gaining permission to enter a property and greeting one another. This is followed by a presentation rich in the history of Hawaii, Molokai and the Halawa Valley. Your understanding of the Molokai people’s experience will expand. It was enlightening to hear the perspective of a native Hawaiian on the chain of events that lead Hawaii from Kingdom to State. Prepare yourself to hear some unfavorable reviews of US policy in the islands.

After the presentation, you will hike approximately 2 km and hear about and witness more of the natural and human history in the valley before arriving at the waterfall. The water in the pool at the bottom of the falls is cold enough to produce instant goosebumps but you must take the plunge for the full experience.

The drive to the Halawa valley on the far east end of the island offered many breathtaking views. Even if you do not do the tour, the drive out east to the park is still worth the trip.

Another must do stop is to go to the Kaulapapa overlook (take your bins) and read the history of the former leper colony (Hanson’s disease). Imagine the suffering from the disease and the abandonment that the residents felt. Also imagine the courage of the real world angels that risked everything to live with the afflicted and tend to their medical, emotional, and spiritual needs: a sobering experience.

Unfortunately, access to the town and surrounding area is only available to residents of the town of Kalaupapa. The area is managed by the NPS as a National Historic Park and is only accessible by plane or boat. As of our visit, there were no tours being operated to the park.

If you have the time, a boat or helicopter ride to experience the highest sea cliffs in the world is another unique Molokai experience.

If you plan to scuba, arrange in advance. There is not enough tourism to have a daily or regular schedule. Best to call the dive shop directly as the website is not necessarily monitored regularly, as I found out. I missed that opportunity.

The Molokai Wrap

The highlight of birding Molokai was on the west end of the island. We drove to the small town Maunaloa. South from that town is a dirt road called the Hale o Lono Beach Road. We took our Turo down this road until I felt the limit of this vehicle’s offroad capability was reached at which point I turned it around and headed for safer ground. It was on this trip that I cleaned up some of introduced birds. Gray and Black Francolin and Eurasian Skylark.