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Introduction
In leaving Veraguas behind, there were at least two things that I was really looking forward to. One was meeting up with my uncle, Clyde Stephens, to do some serious birding with him for the first time. Second, was to bird in higher elevations to see birds that have not been available at any of the locations that I have birded so far this trip. Birding Chiriquí would surely be an exciting time.
Amazing Timing
Mirka and I left Santa Catalina and took a series of transportation legs before arriving at the Hotel Castillo in downtown David many hours later. My uncle left his home in Bocas del Toro to make a similar series of transportation legs totaling several hours.
Our taxi dropped us off at the hotel and we began the check-in process. Not 5 minutes later, in walks Clyde. Was it foreshadowing of the luck that lay before us while birding Chiriquí? Time will tell.
A Little Discussion on Clyde Stephens
Ironically, “Little Discussion” and “Clyde Stephens” do not generally belong in the same sentence. While I already knew this, I would soon learn that I, in reality, had no idea how valid the quip was.
In the Bananero circuit of Panama and in the United Fruit Company, Clyde is a legend. He is a historian, scientist, author, and celebrity. Amongst the expats in Bocas del Toro, he is a person that everyone wants to meet and visit at his home on historical Hospital Point.
Clyde began working in the banana industry in the 1950’s and retired to Panama/Florida in the 1990’s. He is a world-renowned expert on all things bananas. I will stop with this praise now before his head gets to too big to get through the bathroom door.
Needless to say, I was looking forward spending time with my 89 yr old uncle.
Stop One – In Search of a Massacre
On the road from Volcan to Rio Sereno near the Costa Rican border is the area of Cotito. Birding Chiriquí would be on the back burner because somewhere in or near Cotito was the site of the July 7, 1941 government killing of twelve Swiss and German settlers. What exactly led to an escalation that resulted in the shooting is unclear and a matter of debate. In my opinion and the opinion of most I am sure, it was a gross, tragic and criminal overstep on the part of the officials with the guns. This story and many others is detailed in Clyde’s soon to be released book, Peeling the Banana…?, available on Amazon.
There is a plaque that is accessible to the public but the actual mass grave site is on private land and the owner is not open for sightseeing. Naturally, Clyde, with his historian credentials and ability to tell relevant stories in an interesting manner, talked his way to the house, into the house and befriended the owner. We enjoyed coffee which was grown right on his farm. A nice experience.
Stop Two – Do Quetzals Really Exist?
We checked into the Los Quetzales Ecolodge in Cerro Punta and were greeted by the lovely Ms Ana. She is the partner of the owner of the lodge (a close friend of Clyde). We spent a couple nights in the cabins up in the forest reserve and a couple nights at the main lodge area in a cabin along the stream.
Birding Chiriquí from the Mountain Cabins
The 4WD road up to the cabin was one of the roughest I have ever been on. The elevation is about 6500 ft and the climate is cool and comfortable. That afternoon, we settled in, took a small walk around the area and ogled at the hummingbirds working the feeders. New hummingbirds regularly assaulting the feeders were the large, sparrow sized, Violet Sabrewing, the White-throated Mountain-gem, the Talamanca Hummingbird, Stripe-tailed Hummingbird and the Green-crowned Brilliant.
The very vocal Gray-breasted Wood-wren let it be known that he displaces the White-breasted Wood-wren as the dominant wren species at this altitude.
We arranged a bird guide for the second day with the clear purpose of finding the Resplendent Quetzales. Although fall is not the best time due to reduced vocalizations, they are resident. Our guide was superb and before long he heard the flight call of the Quetzal. Shortly after that the female was spotted and photographed. The male also made a brief appearance.
A Great Variety of Birds
We also found many new birds on this day including the Purple-throated Mountain Gem, Prong-billed Barbet, Wrenthrush, Silver-fronted Tapaculo, Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher, Yellowish Flycatcher and many others. The Cerro Punta area is a must stop area when birding Chiriquí.
I was at one moment questioning in my mind the ID the guide made when he pointed out a Hairy Woodpecker. We had good looks at this bird including photos. This was not like the Hairy Woodpecker I know from Oklahoma. It had a different look. I later did some research on this bird and found that there are many disjointed populations of Hairy Woodpecker and the range limited sub-species in Panama is somewhat darker on the belly and all other white areas than that of the North American varieties. New species one day? Time will tell.
Birding Chiriquí from the Main Lodge
Our cabin on the stream was comfortable and private. As far as birding goes the key here was the variety of warblers. There was a pile of citrus waste that was obviously producing what the warblers wanted, larvae. Overall, there were 7 species of warblers observed on and around this pile. Some were migrants and some were residents.
The Slaty Flowerpiercer was working hard in the flowering hedges and I was able to observe his unique feeding style up close. Two other hummingbirds were also regulars at these flowering hedges, the tiny Scintillant Hummingbird and the Lesser Violetear. I pulled up a chair in front of these hedges and took some great photos.
The tiny Ochraceous Wren, which behaves more like a nuthatch, was hanging around the cabin and I was able to get some nice photos.
I scanned the streams both at the lodge and the upper cabins for the Torrent Flycatcher and the American Dipper without success. These two birds along with the Northern Emerald Toucanet were becoming problematic for me.
Our stay at Los Quetzales Ecolodge was a great experience. We were there in low season and basically had the facility to ourselves. Thanks in large part to Ana’s hospitality we really felt at home.
On the next birding Chiriquí trip, we will further investigate the Las Nubes Ranger Station of the Parque National de Amistad. We made a brief stop at this location, but more time is required to scratch the surface of this expansive park.
Stop 3 – A Quick Look in Volcan
Rumor had it that what was once a large expanse of private property had been opened as a natural area with public access. We decided to investigate. The name of the site is Lagunas de Volcan. Getting there was mildly tricky but you know you are on the right path when you cross an active landing strip. Be sure to look both ways. Different internet sources will tell you different things about the road conditions. We entered with our low clearance, cheap rental car with no problem.
We parked in the designated area and walked for an hour. There is still a magnificent estate home on one of the lakes.
While we were not there at an ideal birding time, we easily picked up 20 species, including two lifers, Northern Jacana and Tawny-crowned Greenlet.
Stop 4 – Boquete and the American Dipper
We took backroads to Boquete and avoided the usual return to David. The road was paved in its entirety and in good condition.
Boquete is the most well-known expat retirement town in Panama. It is graced with the necessary elevation (3500 ft) to provide a cooler climate year-round. Tropical jungle heat and humidity is a feature of the lowlands but can be avoided in Boquete.
Ziplining for Birds
Our first destination in Boquete was a cabin in Boquete Tree Trek (elevation 5200 ft). This is a major tourist attraction with world class ziplining. The place was mostly empty to overnighters, but some day trippers were arriving each morning to partake in the ziplining.
We were not there for the ziplining, but it was tempting. We hiked around the property enjoying the cool climate, remarkable views and birds.
Apparently, I risked my life for four life birds. One employee mentioned to us about a trail 100 meters down the road and to the left. We found the trail (blocked by a couple of wooden slats for some reason). That did not deter Clyde as he proceeded to remove the slats and we walked in. The trail led to a small, covered platform that was set-up as a learning area and all seemed to be honey bee themed although we did not see any hives.
Mirka and I opted to hike down the trail and eventually found the hives, with bees. We kept our distance (75 meters) and continued. On the hike, we recorded 14 species and 4 life birds. Life birds were the White-naped Brushfinch, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, Ruddy Woodcreeper and Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush. On the return, we encountered another employee who seemed quite annoyed by our presence. After some discussion, it was apparent that the “bee experience” was a paid activity requiring a guide to keep us safe and that we just needed to leave, which we did.
Feeling Like Royalty
Next, we moved closer to town and selected the Bambuda Castle to host our remaining time in Boquete. This property is built in the style of a medieval castle and is considered one of the top hostels in Panama. From this home base we spent the next two days in search of the American Dipper and Torrent Flycatcher. Just to avoid the build-up of excitement followed by a big letdown, we did not see either of these birds, but it was fun trying. Yes, we dipped on the Dipper!
There are many great birding locations in the Boquete area. We hit several of the defined spots and stopped at many other locations that looked promising. Pipeline Trail, Tres Cascades, Finca Lerida are prime locations to bird. Sendero de los Quetzales is a fantastic trail along the slopes of Volcan Barú, however, this trail has been closed for repair for about 5 yrs now. The watchman at the start of the trail gives some promise that some action may begin soon to reopen this trail.
It was in Boquete that we met up with Clyde’s friend and publisher Pat Alvaro and her husband, Ibu. Clyde worked in the banana industry with his father many years ago. It was so kind for them to invite us all to their house for drinks and dinner one evening. We had a wonderful time.
Fifty-two new life birds were added while birding Chiriquí province.
It was now time to end the birding adventure and travel to our Panama home in Bocas del Toro. Of course, there would be plenty of birding opportunities there too.
Joel, I remember you had been drinking too much Abuelo when you wrote all those nice things about me. Modesty forbids me to make further comment. This blog keeps getting better and this is about the best so far. I felt blessed to be part of that unforgettable trip and I hope we can repeat it or explore more next year in Panama–maybe even cross over to Costa Rica.
Sounds like a plan!
Great report!
Joel, I am amazed at all those birds you and Mirka were able to capture photographically and to be able to name them! It was very nice to meet you both.
Pat Alvarado
Hello Joel and all, as your uncle Clyde stated, this blog entry is stupendous! I am amazed at the birds of Panama. Thank you for sharing your visits to the totally unique areas. I must go back and go farther!
Best, Liz Bokram