Part 7 - Alaska, A Journey not a Destination
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Barrow, Alaska (now officially called Utqiagvik) might well be the most unique and interesting place that I have ever been. I want to go back!
Although birding Barrow in the summer is fantastic, and I will get to that, this town is loaded with history and culture, new and old.
Birding Barrow Arrival
When we landed in our Disney Toontown Boeing 737 at the airport, I felt like we were transported back in time. Despite that large plane flying in and out, seven days a week, full, the airport reminded me of the pre-9/11 airports of small Caribbean islands that mostly accommodate puddle-jumpers. You walked right into the cramped lobby and waited by a very small luggage belt. The lobby could not accommodate 10% of the plane’s passengers so most waited out in the street. Eventually, your suitcase would be thrown through the window onto the non-moving belt.
It seemed that some of the local children took pleasure in grabbing the suitcases and lining them up on the floor for easier access. Watching them work with such pride and diligence, it was clear that this was the cool thing to do for the 10-12yr olds in Barrow. Cheap entertainment, for sure.
We stayed at the King Eider Inn almost directly across from the airport. It was the slightly cheaper and much more convenient option. The lobby was nice, the staff friendly and the rooms basic and clean. If birding Barrow, this is the place I would recommend.
Sticker Shock
We quickly learned that when birding Barrow, don’t worry about money. It will just stress you out. Everything is double or more. Room, rental car, food, fuel. Just accept that with remoteness comes supply chain issues that drive up pricing. It is that way for everyone. This is not a tourist town. The prices are not about tourism.
While most residents are Native Alaskans, there are a significant number of non-Natives who are involved in various research projects in the region. Most of the research is government sponsored climate research. There are also other NGOs doing their thing both from a social service and conservation standpoint. There is a noticeable Asian presence as well. The King Eider Inn was run by a Vietnamese man and his wife, which made for some interesting reminiscing of my time in his country.
Our favorite restaurant was Asian. It had a Japanese name (Osaka), was run by a Chinese family and had the best Korean Bibimbap ever.
The Oklahoma Connection
There is a strong connection between Oklahoma and Barrow, Alaska.
Will Rogers was a humorist with significant fame before and during the Great Depression. His popularity transcended genres and economic divides. He was and is a true icon of American pop culture. Will Rogers was born and raised in rural Oklahoma.
Wiley Post was an entrepreneur and an aviation visionary. He twice broke the record for flying around the globe. The second time as a solo pilot. He dabbled in high altitude flight in the early 1930’s and invented a pressurized suit that was later used as a starting point for designing the spacesuits used by NASA astronauts. He was also very good friends with Will Rogers. Wiley Post was raised in rural Oklahoma.
Wiley was investigating a mail route from the US to Russia and wanted to explore Alaska to this end. His wife was intending to ride with him in the single engine plane but backed out at the last minute and Will Rogers was invited and accepted. This reminds me of Waylon Jennings giving up his seat to the Big Bopper the day the music died in Minnesota.
On August 15, 1935, the plane was taking off 15 miles from Barrow, lost power and crashed into a river killing both Will and Wiley.
The Barrow airport is called the Wiley Post-Will Rogers Memorial Airport.
No HOA's to Worry About
A walk or drive around Barrow will quickly reveal a town that is far less concerned about appearances than practicalities. There is a graveyard for spare parts for all critical machinery in most every “yard”, note the quotation marks. What is critical machinery in Barrow? Boats, snow machines, cars. Home owners do not worry about fancy entrances or curb appeal. While the homes appear rustic and basic, I can only imagine what the insulation in the floors, walls and roofs must be to maintain a level of comfort in the long harsh winter.
No, It's Not all Ice Hockey
Are you ready for some football? Well Barrow is. This is the only place north of the Arctic Circle where organized American Football is played. Oh, and they are serious. The aptly named Barrow High School Whalers have only had a program since 2006. Since inception, they have advanced to the championship game four times and won once. In 2015 their season was chronicled by the NFL Network with an 8-episode series.
They are pretty serious about boys’ and girls’ basketball and volleyball, too with a dozen state titles several times state runner-up in the last 20 years.
I wonder if their fight song includes something like, “Go Whalers, Go. Harpoon those ______!”. It’s a bit cringe for us non-subsistence hunters to think about.
Subsistance Hunting
Speaking of harpooning, they still do it! Bowhead whale hunting is still a big source of food for the natives of Barrow with evidence of success in the form of skeletal remains littering the beaches. Also, seals and walrus provide nourishment.
One semi-famous photo spot in Barrow is a large set of bowhead whale jawbones propped up in the sand. A popular art form is taking a baleen from a whale, drying it, intricately painting it and making a wall hanging from it. Of course, this attractive art cannot be commercialized but it is on display in most businesses we entered.
Barrow was the location of a real-life drama that gained international attention in 1988. Three gray whales became trapped in a freezing ocean with no path to freedom. An international response eventually succeeded in breaking ice to create a path for the whales to escape. The drama was later turned into a Hollywood movie, with a romantic twist, of course, starring Drew Barrymore, Kristen Bell, Ted Danson and John Krasinski called Big Miracle. Check it out!
Birding Barrow
Ok, finally, let’s talk about Birding Barrow.
There are three reasons for Birding Barrow in the summer:
- There are some species that you simply cannot reliably find unless you travel to the arctic. (Yellow-billed Loon, Eiders, Snowy Owl, All Three Jaegars, Hoary Redpoll)
- There are birds that you see commonly in the lower 48 in drab plumage that are common in Barrow but in breeding plumage and very approachable. (Lapland Longspur, Pectoral Sandpiper, Dunlin)
- There is a possibility of seeing Asian vagrants that only rarely enter the United States.
Birding Barrow Hotspots
We were birding Barrow for three full days splitting our time between walking around town, the tundra and the shoreline.
In town, Snow Buntings are as common as house sparrows in Houston. Lapland Longspurs and both Redpolls are common, as well as many waders.
There are a handful of roads leading out into the tundra to various hotspots. While birding the roads, we would drive slowly and look for bird activity, areas where there was walking access to various ponds and lakes or other points of interest (landfill, towers, structures).
Birding Barrow Beaches
While birding the shorelines, it was mostly a waiting game. If the wind wasn’t blowing too hard or the rain wasn’t falling, we would walk the beach or sit on a piece of driftwood and see what flew by. If the wind was blowing hard or rain was falling we would sit in the comfort of our car and wait for a flock to fly by or some other bird to land in our vicinity.
The temperature averaged 35F while we were there and aside from the first day, which was sunny and beautiful, the sky was overcast and there was intermittent rain.
Notable Near Miss
There were a few other people birding Barrow and adding checklists to eBird while we were there, but disappointingly, we never crossed paths.
One of the top North American birders not only for the year but also all-time was there (a couple with a joint eBird account). They reported twice a Red-necked Stint (Asian rarity) which I immediately went to their location and did not find.
Another guy was reporting Northern Fulmers cruising along the beach. I never saw them. These, however, were the only letdowns.
Experiencing the Amazing Birds
To see flocks of hundreds, if not thousands, of King and Common Eider was a thing to behold. All three Jaegers were common. Blindingly white Snowy Owls reveal themselves against the brown monochromic tundra. Lapland Longspurs in full breeding plumage are not camera shy. Getting up close with Pectoral Sandpipers, Semipalmated Sandpipers, Dunlin, Pacific Loon and others all in full breeding plumage was magical. I am literally getting goosebumps just remembering the experiences.
I cannot wait to go back. I will go back for more Birding Barrow!
Wow Joel and thank you so much for sharing. What great photos, stories and adventures. Your up close photos look so professional. Keep it up. Barrows and Deadhorse has been on my bucket list.
Thanks again,
Ken
Definitely do Barrow! We went halfway to Deadhorse with our camper, the road is pretty dicey and lots of commercial traffic from the oil industry. Windshields beware! That being said, lots of people do it, even on motorcycles!
Yet another great report and so rare and unique. I learned so much. Thanks.
So much fun to read, as usual! Great story-telling and photos!
This blog was the best ever – for me anyway. Loved it! Aunt Nita
Love the stories and adventures!